Apple tree: how to grow a healthy tree that delights with harvest

The apple tree is a well-known garden culture for a long time. Looking at any garden at random, you will definitely see an apple tree there. Delicious, juicy, and most importantly, healthy fruits are not difficult to grow. But you need to know some of the nuances of care that relate to individual regions. And if your favorite tree has lived a long life and has lost the ability to bear fruit, but you do not want to lose your favorite variety, there are always breeding methods suitable for both beginners and experienced gardeners.

Growing an apple tree

The apple tree is one of the most popular trees in gardens, not only in our country, but all over the world. Of course, growing your favorite fruit begins with the selection of a variety. Here it is necessary to take into account not only taste preferences, but also the plasticity of the variety, its ability to get accustomed to the conditions of the region. On this basis, only zoned seedlings should be purchased.

If you look into the garden at random, then you can surely find an apple tree there.

In addition, the varieties are divided according to the ripening period:

• summer;
• autumn;
• winter.

Ideally, you need to plant several apple trees on the site, which will yield crops at different times. Then you can enjoy the light taste of summer fruits to your satisfaction. By the way, they are not stored for a long time and are not very suitable for preparation, so gobble it up by both cheeks yourself and treat your friends and acquaintances. Autumn varieties are also not the best option for storage (3 months at the most), but in the winter you can make a lot of healthy yummy from these apples. But winter varieties are ideal for storage. It is they who will provide vitamins and will fill the room with a lively aroma at the end of autumn and all winter. There are winter varieties that can last until the end of the spring with proper storage (Antonovka, Northern Sinap, Jonathan, Crimean Aurora).

The Antonovka variety is famous not only for its taste, but also for keeping quality.

It will not work to get an instant result, that is, a harvest. As with all fruit trees, each apple variety has its own early maturity - the time of entry into the fruiting period.

• the minimum time from planting to the first harvest is 2 - 4 years;
• medium-sized I form a crop for 5 - 8 years;
• late-fruited, only after 9 - 10 years.

But on the other hand, the apple tree grows and bears fruit for a long time - depending on the region, 50 - 80 years (although the yield of old trees decreases). There have been cases when a home tree has stepped over its 100th anniversary.Over such a long period, the apple tree undergoes several periods of growth:

• the first stage is the growth of vegetative parts of the tree. It lasts until the apple tree enters the fruiting period and is characterized by the development of the root system, the growth of leaf mass and the formation of the crown;
• the second stage is fruiting. At the beginning of this period, the apple tree still grows vegetative parts, but soon this process slows down until it completely dies out;
• the third stage is the extinction of the ability to bear fruit. The apple tree grows old, the branches begin to dry, the yield decreases. To prolong the fruiting period of the apple tree, rejuvenating pruning is done.

To grow a large fruiting tree, you need to plant a tiny seed

Planting an apple tree

Having decided on the apple variety, you can start planting. The main thing here is to choose the right timing, because in different regions they do not coincide. For an apple tree, planting is quite acceptable both in spring and autumn. Each period has its own characteristics, pros and cons. Choosing the right place is also important. You need to take into account good lighting, the level of occurrence of groundwater and the absence of a number of competitors, that is, adult fruit trees. And, of course, you need to plant a seedling in suitable soils that meet all the requirements of an apple tree - a neutral reaction, sufficient looseness and fertility.

You can plant an apple tree in spring or autumn, but always with an assistant

I would like to talk in more detail about the characteristics of the soil, because the apple tree will have to not only grow, but also bear fruit in one place for a long time. Therefore, the ideal parameters of a soil ready for planting an apple tree should be as follows:

• acidity in the range of 5.1 - 7.5;
• lack of salinity, because a high content of readily soluble mineral salts harms the roots;
• the thickness of the humus horizon is more than 18 cm;
• high microbiological activity; the ability to pass air and moisture well.

All these indicators are sufficiently possessed by loams, which are considered the most suitable soils for apple trees. But sandy soils, light chernozems, gray soils and chestnut soils would also be a good option.

Even if the soil on the site is suitable for planting, it must be prepared in advance. Sowing siderates (phacelia, clover, white mustard) would be a good option. After digging with green residues, the soil will acquire a porous structure and replenish with nutrients that can penetrate to great depths. It is also a good idea to dig up the soil with the introduction of rotted manure or humus (10 - 15 kg of organic matter per 1 m2).

If the soils do not meet the declared indicators, they are prepared more carefully, taking into account all the features:

• heavy clay soil accumulates excess moisture, poorly permeates oxygen and does not warm up enough. Therefore, for digging, peat, coarse sand, wood ash, manure (horse, rabbit or sheep) and calcium nitrate are introduced into it, which will help the apple tree quickly build up its green mass;
• sandy soil, on the contrary, quickly loses moisture and nutrients. To restore the balance, peat, vegetable compost, bone meal, saporel, rotted manure and azofoska are added;
• wetlands are prepared as follows - rotted sawdust, compost, dolomite flour, horse or rabbit manure, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added. If the peat layer is more than 40 cm, then sand must be added. In addition, diversion grooves are being constructed, which will help reduce the level of groundwater. The apple tree in such areas is best planted on artificial hills.

So that the apple tree does not feel hunger and thirst during growth, you need to properly prepare the soil mixture

Apple tree care

Apple tree care begins immediately after planting. It includes a set of measures that will help the seedling quickly adapt in a new place and form correctly for the further fruiting period.

Watering

When planting a seedling in autumn for watering, it is quite possible to save money if the autumn season is replete with precipitation. But if the weather is dry, then you will need to water the seedling in a couple of weeks, pouring 2 - 3 buckets of water into the trunk circle.

A tree planted in spring is watered more often. But it is worth considering the composition of the soil and weather conditions. Hot weather quickly dries up the soil, and if there is also no precipitation, then you need to water the seedling almost every week. The ground under the tree should be kept moderately moist at all times. If the rooting process was successful, as evidenced by bud breakout and rapid growth of shoots, then the number of watering is reduced. To prevent moisture from evaporating in vain, the trunk circle is mulched with straw or dry grass.

Mulch is a great way to preserve the necessary moisture in the soil.

Water for irrigation should be warm. 18 - 25 ° C is the most favorable temperature. Cold and moisture exceeding these temperature indicators, the roots of the apple tree will perceive very poorly.

An apple tree that has entered the fruiting period is watered in a slightly different way. An adult plant, which has acquired a powerful root system, is enough to water during the most important growing periods for it. And there are only 4 of them:

• at the moment when the flower buds are ready to open;
• when the extra ovary begins to fall off;
• during the period of fruit filling;
• after falling leaves.

While admiring the flowering of the apple tree, do not forget that during this period it must be watered

The water rate for a mature tree naturally increases. One apple tree should have up to 6 buckets of water. This rate can be divided into 2 applications - morning and evening. Thus, moisture can fully saturate the soil, evenly distributed to the required depth.

It is very important to take into account the mechanical composition of the soil when watering. If for normal soils 60 liters under a tree is enough, then on clay soils and chernozems, the irrigation rate is reduced by 15%, and on sandy and dried peatlands, on the contrary, it increases by 20% of the normal volume.

Never water little by little. Such moisturizing is harmful!

Watering methods can be different:

• using a hose;
• buckets;
• by sprinkling (this method is also good because in hot weather it helps to reduce the temperature and increase the humidity);
• by the borehole method (wells are made using a drill to a depth of 50 cm. With this irrigation, a soil crust does not form and the structure of the soil is not disturbed).

You can water the apple tree even from a watering can, the main thing is that the tree receives a sufficient amount of water

Each season has its own characteristics of care, they differ not only in the norms of watering, the name of the fertilizers applied, but also in general care, including pruning.

Spring care

Spring works start in February. Yes, I am not confusing anything. The fact is that the spring sun can harm the bark, especially of young trees.

1. Therefore, the first stage of spring work is the whitewashing of the trunk. She is also able to protect the tree from overwintered pests, which, waking up, rush up the trunk. The whitewash mix can be purchased at your specialist store. But it's easy to make yourself. This will require:
   • 300 g of lime;
   • 2 tbsp. l. stationery glue;
   • 2 liters of water.
2. If you haven't removed fallen leaves and fruits in the fall, do so early in the season to prevent fungal infections from developing with the arrival of heat.
3. Pruning takes place from March to April. By forming the correct crown of the seedling, you help the tree to show a decent level of yield in the future. By pruning a mature tree, you get rid of excessive thickening, which reduces the number of fruits. The thinned crown is better ventilated and illuminated by the sun, and this affects the yield, size and sugar content of the fruits, and reduces the incidence rate.
4. Pest prevention is one of the most important stages of spring care, because the fruiting season is ahead, and a weakened tree is not able to show good results. To rid the apple tree of pests, put on trapping belts on the trunks - this will significantly reduce the number of crawling insects.
   

   Fishing belts will help to significantly reduce the number of crawling pests

5. Also carry out the treatment against diseases and pests by spraying the apple tree three times:
   • until the kidneys swell when the air temperature reaches 4 ° C;
   • before flowering. This period lasts from late March to early April and is carried out with the aim of exterminating the larvae that feed on the buds;
   • 2 - 3 weeks after flowering (mid - end of March). During this interval, ticks begin to wake up. The treatment will help reduce the risk of infection and develop the apple tree's resistance to various pathogens.
6. In the spring, as soon as the snow begins to melt, feeding is mandatory. In order for the apple tree to wake up quickly and begin to build up the green mass, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are used. Top dressing can be combined with the first watering.

There are many preparations for treating the garden. For example, biological ones are gentle and do an excellent job with a small number of pests or at the initial stage of diseases:

• Planzir;
• Trichodermin;
• Bitoxibacillin;
• Pentafag-C;
• Lepidocide;
• Aktofit.

Chemicals help to suppress pathogens and control pests in the shortest possible time. In addition, spring processing does not pose a threat to human health, since there is still a long time before the harvest. But it is necessary to observe the dosage when preparing the solution and personal protective equipment when spraying. Most often in the spring, the garden is treated:

• copper sulfate;
• Urea;
• Soon;
• iron vitriol.

If you have planned to vaccinate or budding, then the best time for this procedure is May, when the active movement of juices begins.

Autumn care

So the hot summer has passed, the harvest is harvested and the autumn season begins. It is important in terms of preparing for the coming winter. The ability of the apple tree to overwinter and please with the harvest next year depends on how correctly the autumn care is carried out.

Autumn care is similar to spring care in terms of operations, but their goals are very different.

Pruning

Autumn pruning is sanitary. Broken and dried branches should be removed, especially on a diseased tree. Perform the procedure with a sharply honed garden tool, which do not forget to disinfect each time.

Do not wait until the temperature drops below the minus mark, choose a fine, dry day so that the temperature is at least 5 ° C, and get started. Cut diseased branches to healthy tissue. Try to keep the cuts even, without scuffing the bark. To treat wounds, first use a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water), then use a garden varnish. Such processing will not allow infection to penetrate through the cut into the tissue of the tree.

Sanitary pruning carried out in the fall will relieve the apple tree from unnecessary stress

Anti-aging pruning can be done in the fall. Thanks to her, old apple trees get the opportunity to rejuvenate and extend the period of fruiting.

In addition to pruning, be sure to clean the trunks of the apple trees. To do this, spread a cloth under the tree and use a plastic scraper to remove the old peeled bark, peel off lichens and mosses. Try to act carefully so as not to harm the wood. Experienced gardeners get to work after rain to avoid damage, but if the fall is dry, you can pre-wet the trunk with water. If damage cannot be avoided, use a garden varnish to cover up wounds and scratches. Destroy the remains of the old bark.

Only clean the barrel with a plastic tool

After the barrel is cleaned, you can start whitewashing.Autumn whitewashing will destroy the pests that were able to survive after cleaning the trunk and help the apple tree avoid frost breaks.

After stripping, a mandatory procedure is whitewashing

Cleaning the trunk circles

After the leaves fall, proceed to the processing of the trunk circles. With the help of a special garden tool - fan or simple rake, it is quite easy to cope with the collection of fallen leaves and fruits. Leaving organic debris under the apple tree is not worth it; it will serve as a shelter for pathogenic fungi and pests. But sending the harvested foliage to the compost heap means getting excellent organic feeding next year. But remember, only healthy leaves and fruits are good for compost. If the tree hurt, then send the collected garbage to the fire.

Healthy foliage and scavengers can be safely composted

Watering

This procedure is relevant if autumn does not indulge in precipitation. And it is important to saturate the soil with moisture, as this will prevent frost from harming the root system of the apple tree. Watering is necessary only after the leaves fall. If the apple tree has not dropped its foliage, abundant watering can provoke further growth, which will negatively affect wintering. The air temperature should be within 2 - 3 ° С.

Water-charging irrigation is special. The soil must be saturated to a depth of 1 - 1.5 m. Therefore, the irrigation rate differs from the usual in a larger direction. So, under one adult apple tree, you need to pour from 10 to 14 buckets of water per 1 m². A young tree also needs a lot of moisture, but since the root system has not grown enough yet, then 4 - 5 buckets will be more than enough.

If there is a need to water the apple tree in the fall, then this must be done before the onset of frost

But there are also contraindications for autumn watering. If the apple tree grows on heavy clay soils, on poorly drained soils or in an area with a high groundwater level, then the moisture charging procedure may be contraindicated.

To check if you need abundant watering before winter, do a simple test. Dig a hole between the trees 30 - 40 cm deep. Take the soil from the depths and squeeze it in your hand.

• if the soil crumbles, then moistening is necessary;
• water, but about half of the required rate will have to be done if the soil collects into a lump, but does not leave a wet mark on the paper;
• it is possible to abandon pre-winter moisture if the soil forms into a dense lump that does not fall apart, and a wet trail remains on the paper from the soil.

In order not to be mistaken about the need for pre-winter watering, first check the soil for moisture

Autumn treatment for diseases and pests

Processing started in spring is continued in summer if necessary. But it is also needed at the end of the growing season. Given that the crop has already been harvested, the apple tree can be treated with chemicals of greater concentration. It is the autumn processing that will bring the expected effect, because you no longer need to be afraid of burning buds or leaves.

As a rule, spraying is carried out in dry and calm weather with positive thermometer readings. But if necessary, you can carry out processing after the first frost.

1. For fungal infections, treat with copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) or iron sulfate (500 g per 10 l of water).
2. Black cancer - 3 - 5% iron sulfate or 1 - 3% copper sulfate.
3. From scab - 3% Bordeaux liquid or urea solution (700 g per 10 l).
4. Lichens - treatment of the trunk and skeletal branches with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
5. Apple moth - 7% urea solution.

In autumn, more concentrated solutions can be used to treat apple trees.

Top dressing

Autumn feeding helps the apple tree to strengthen the wood and increase winter hardiness. It is best done in combination with pre-winter watering. This will allow the fertilizer to be absorbed evenly into the soil.

For autumn feeding, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not used! They cause prolonged growth of shoots, thereby increasing the risk of freezing of immature wood. It is best to feed the apple tree with phosphorus and potassium during this period. To prepare a solution in 10 liters of water, dissolve 1 tbsp. l. any potash fertilizer and 2 tbsp. l. any phosphorus-containing, for example, superphosphate. The specified proportion is enough for 1 m² of tree trunk space for apple trees up to 10 years old. If the tree is older than this age, but the fertilizer rate needs to be almost doubled.

Organic lovers can use manure or compost for digging. For 1 m², you need to add 5 - 6 kg of the specified substances. Dig with a pitchfork, so as not to harm the roots, within a radius of 1 - 1.5 m from the trunk. Dug under the crown to a depth of no more than 20 cm. Outside the crown - already on the bayonet of the shovel.

Fertilizers are applied before the onset of frost. It should be borne in mind that the apple tree will need at least 3 weeks to assimilate the introduced nutrients.

For autumn feeding, you need to choose special, nitrogen-free fertilizers

Insulation of the stem and root system, protection from rodents

Regardless of the frost resistance of the apple tree and the region, the stems of young apple trees under the age of 6 - 7 years should be wrapped for the winter with breathable materials - burlap, thick cardboard, spruce branches, corn stalks, etc. For additional protection from rodents, a fine-mesh net can be fixed on top. For adult apple trees, such protection is provided if the winters are very frosty, windy and snowless (but first of all, you need to know well what the lower temperature limit is acceptable for the variety).

Materials that are not breathable are not suitable. Under them, the bark will rot and the tree may die.

The root area must be mulched using peat or spruce branches. Not suitable for mulching: fallen leaves - soggy, decayed foliage is the best refuge for pathogens and pests; straw or hay is an excellent shelter for mice, which will surely ruin the bark of trees and roots; fresh manure - can burn roots and the lower part of the trunk.

The height of the mulch layer must be sufficient:

• for mature trees - at least 10-15 cm;
• for young apple trees - up to 25 cm;
• in regions where frosts drop to -35 ° C - 30 - 35 cm.

To protect the seedling from frost, wrap it with breathable materials

Features of caring for an apple tree in different regions

The apple tree is a very hardy tree, and given the fact that only zoned varieties are planted in each region, the generally accepted rules for caring for the tree apply.

But, nevertheless, the colder the region, the more difficult it is for the apple tree, which means that the care for it changes somewhat.

1. If we consider the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory and Rostov Region, then the entire cycle of leaving from spring to autumn is completely repeated. Particular attention is paid to watering. Planting in these regions is preferable in autumn.
2. The middle zone of Russia, including the Moscow region, is also not particularly different in terms of leaving. Nuances may arise due to the predominance of sod-podzolic soils, which have low fertility. A properly prepared planting pit and fertilizers applied on time will help to correct the situation. There may also be difficulties with the increased acidity of the soil, but this problem can be easily eliminated with liming.
3. The Volga regions are too dry. Under these conditions, seedlings and mature apple trees must receive sufficient moisture. Proper maintenance will help to preserve the normal level of moisture in the soil - after watering, the soil crust is broken by light loosening, and mulching prevents excessive evaporation of moisture. In addition, in the region, the codling moth often spoils the harvest, so pest prevention should be under control.
4. In the Urals and Siberia, climatic conditions do not indulge. Here and summer, not only is short, but also cool. And what can we say about winters.But in these places apple trees grow. Of course, preference is given to varieties with high winter hardiness and fruiting in the early and middle periods. Planting is carried out in the spring. Given the strong winds, the seedling is tied to the support thoroughly. Supports are placed under the fruit-bearing branches so as not to break. Pruning is carried out in late May or even early June, when a regrowth zone appears. Moreover, in harsh climatic conditions, a cut is made on a side branch. The crown is formed in stanza (creeping) or in stanza-bush-like form.
   

   In regions with strong winds, supports should be placed under the branches with the harvest.

Reproduction of an apple tree

There are many ways to propagate an apple tree. There are quite simple ones, but there are also complex ones that professionals can do. We will try to consider each method separately.

How to propagate without vaccination

These methods are suitable even for inexperienced gardeners, as they do not require special skills.

Seeds

This method is mainly used when creating new varieties and when growing rootstocks. If an apple tree grows from a seed in your garden, then it will be a wild game, since it will not inherit the characteristics of the mother tree. But grown from apple seeds are durable and perfectly adapt to climatic conditions.

1. In the fall, harvest the ripe seeds from the ripe fruit.
2. Rinse them to free them from the remaining pulp and juice, dry for a couple of days at room temperature.
3. For spring sowing, stratify. To do this, place the seeds in a container with wet sand and place them in the refrigerator for a week or two.
4. Sow the hatched seeds in peat pots using a soil mixture consisting of garden soil and peat. Then, when the seedlings appear, plant them in the garden with the pots.
5. The stratification process can be carried out in a natural way. Prepare grooves 2 cm deep and plant the seeds in them at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Sprinkle with earth and mulch. Shoots will appear in the spring.

The seedlings are monitored throughout the season, removing weak plants or those with small leaves and shortened branches. The rest are transplanted to a permanent place after a year, pinching the central root. When the stem of the seedling has the diameter of a pencil, it is considered suitable for budding with an eye or bud.

Apple tree from seeds - quite real, really long

Cuttings

Cuttings are usually harvested in summer in June, but not later than August. At this point, the intensive development of shoots ends. You need to cut the cuttings early in the morning, and on the day when you will be doing rooting work.

On harvested shoots, use only the middle part, making 2 cuts with a sharp knife. The bottom cut of the cutting should be made directly under the last bud, removing all leaves along the length of the deepening. Upper - above the upper kidney. Cut the remaining top leaves in half to reduce evaporation. The prepared stalk can be planted in open ground or in a special greenhouse, deepening by 1 - 2 cm, no more.

How to root green cuttings correctly - video

Root cuttings

This method is applied to previously ungrafted trees. It is from them that self-rooted plants are obtained, which retain the properties of the parent more fully than grafted ones. From root cuttings, durable apple trees are obtained that tolerate harsh winters well. Even if the aboveground part is frozen, then in the spring from the roots will grow again.

It is better to take root shoots from young trees, since old cuttings take root less well. The time for harvesting root cuttings is spring, the period before bud break. After planting, proper watering should be observed - the soil should not dry out, but it should not be overmoistened either. Therefore, mulch is often used, which is spread in a 5-centimeter layer in the root zone. If the process went well, then by the fall you will have an excellent seedling.

Obtaining apple seedlings from root cuttings - video

Layers

This method consists in the fact that in the fall the apple tree is planted at an angle so that the lower branches touch the ground. Bushy forms of apple trees are also suitable.

To get layering, the tree must be planted at an angle.

In spring, twigs that are close to the soil are pinned to the surface with metal staples. During the growing season, the shoots growing from them are constantly spud up in order to stimulate the root-forming process. Next spring, it remains only to separate the layers ready for planting with the help of a secateurs.

To pin the twig to the ground, you need iron staples.

Air layering

Such a reproduction method, which is familiar to many indoor plants, is also applied to the apple tree. This technique was based on the plant's ability to form roots from the damaged cambium layer.

Examine the crown and select a few fruit branches without branching. Cut the bark and cambial layer in a circle, then, stepping back from the first cut a few centimeters, make the second. Be careful not to damage the wood, peel off the bark between the cuts. Apply any root-forming compound to the exposed part of the wood, and then cover this area with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. Wrap the top with a plastic bag and secure around the edges with rope or duct tape. After a month and a half, a root system is formed at the cut site. To plant the finished air layer in the soil, it remains only to cut the branch under the formed roots.

Reproduction by layering - video

Reproduction by grafting

These methods require certain skills. If you are a beginner gardener, then you can ask an experienced friend to suggest or carry out the first procedure for you.

Grafting by budding in stock

The procedure is carried out in the summer. A well-developed annual twig is cut from the selected apple variety. All leaves are removed from it, but petioles are left. Then, with the help of a sharp knife, a ready-to-grow bud with a piece of bark is cut off. A T-shaped incision is made on the cleaned stem of the stock, a kidney is carefully inserted into it and wrapped with a special tape for budding.

How easy it is to get vaccinated (budding) - video

Cleft grafting

This method can be performed throughout the growing season, but the best time is spring. Small twigs are easiest to plant.

1. Choose a stock (wild, branch or trunk), cleaned of dust, dirt, old bark. The game is cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil surface. A branch or trunk is cut down depending on the situation. The cut is well cleaned. Below the cut, there should be no defects (sag, cracks), as they will interfere.
2. A stock with a small thickness is split with a sharp knife to a depth of 4 cm. If the grafting is supposed to be on a branch of a large diameter or a stump, then a saw or a hatchet will be needed.
3. The scion is prepared immediately. It is harvested in such a way that at least 4 eyes remain above the place where it is combined with the scion. The lower part of the scion is cut with a wedge, its length must match the length of the split.
4. The prepared scion is inserted into the rootstock split so that the cambial layers are combined. But on top of the connection, you need to leave a small area of ​​bare wood in order to improve the fusion of the scion and rootstock.
5. If you are grafting on a stump or thick branch, then 2 cuttings are inserted on opposite edges.
6. Open grafting sites are treated with garden varnish, and then tightly wrapped with a special tape.

Grafting garden trees with a cuttings in a split - video

Possible growing problems

As already noted, the apple tree is a rather unpretentious tree. But sometimes, even for seasoned gardeners, something can go wrong. And this has nothing to do with poor care. Soil and climatic conditions are often the cause of problems. Although the human factor cannot be ruled out either.If we consider each individual problem, then there may be several reasons for its occurrence. Therefore, before proceeding to rectify the situation, analyze all possible options.

Growing problems and their elimination - table

Why the apple tree does not bear fruit - video

The apple tree is a decoration of any garden. In the spring it fills the air with a delicate aroma, and in the fall it generously presents with the harvest. Making friends with a tree is very simple - you just need to follow the simple rules of care. And also try to be careful to help the apple tree in time if there are any difficulties in growing.

Related entries:

How to grow various varieties of apple trees in the Moscow region

Pruning apple trees in the fall for beginners

Apple tree Melba: how to grow this unique variety