Cabbage is a favorite vegetable on our table all year round: delicious and healthy salads and soups, cabbage rolls and pies are prepared from it, fermented and salted for the winter. To get environmentally friendly products, it is better to grow them yourself. The Aggressor variety is well known to vegetable growers - it gives a good harvest even on depleted soils and in adverse weather conditions, and due to its drought resistance, it can be grown in regions with hot climates.
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Description and characteristics of cabbage variety Aggressor F1
The Aggressor variety is an achievement of Dutch selection. It was bred by the specialists of the Syngenta Seeds company in 2003 and at the same time entered the State Register for cultivation almost throughout Russia, with the exception of the northern regions.
Cabbage Aggressor bred by Dutch breeders and has improved characteristics
The agressor white cabbage has established itself among farmers as a vegetable crop capable of producing stable yields on an industrial scale. The average yield is 431–650 c / ha (for comparison, for hybrids Crumont F1 and Amtrak F1 472–620 c / ha).
And in favorable weather conditions, with proper agricultural technology in the Moscow region, higher indicators were achieved - 800 c / ha.
Medium late variety, ripens by the end of September, 150 days after germination. When grown as seedlings, the growing season is reduced to 130 days.
Cabbage Aggressor gives stable yields regardless of weather conditions
Rounded gray-green leaves with a strong waxy bloom, slightly wavy at the edges, form a neat raised rosette. The head of cabbage is rounded, dense, covered with anthocyanin-colored leaves. In cut, it is white, with a yellowish center, has a stump of medium length - 16-18 cm. The mass of a head of cabbage is 2.5-3 kg, although it can reach 5 kg.
By the end of September, a dense, round, medium-sized head of cabbage is formed
The Aggressor variety is in demand on the market due to its excellent taste. The high content of vitamin C allows the vegetable to be used for baby and diet food. The juicy leaves can be eaten fresh, they have a dense structure and remain crispy when fermented. Cabbage has good keeping quality and can be stored in a cool room for up to 5 months.
On the cut, a head of cabbage is off-white
Resistance to stressful situations, immunity to the causative agent of fusarium wilting, which has a detrimental effect on many vegetable crops, allows obtaining high quality products - the presentation retains 92–96% of the crop.
Video: cabbage Aggressor F1
Growing features
100% seed germination and a high degree of adaptation of the variety to field conditions allows you to grow cabbage right in the garden. If it is necessary to obtain earlier production, use the seedling method.
Seedless way
This variety of cabbage can be sown directly in open ground.
- The garden bed is prepared in advance, in the fall: it is freed from plant residues and fertilizer is applied for digging (a bucket of humus \ m2), as well as lime (500 g / m2) to create an optimal reaction of the soil environment.
Cabbage should not be grown in the area where turnip, radish, rutabaga, radish grew before it. Good predecessors are beans, peas, beets, garlic, carrots, zucchini, cucumbers, potatoes.
The place for planting cabbage should be prepared in autumn
- In the spring, in late April - early May, with the establishment of warm days (15 ° C), the soil in the garden is loosened, 30 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt, 45 g of urea are added and spilled with a hot solution of manganese.
- Seeds are laid out in marked grooves, 3-4 pieces per hole. Sowing pattern - 70x60 cm.
Sow cabbage in rows, leaving 60 cm between seeds
- Crops are moistened and covered. Foil, spunbond on arcs or plastic bottles are used as insulation.
- Seedlings appear quickly - after 4–5 days, however, when the temperature drops to 10 ° C, seed germination may take 2 weeks.
- With the appearance of the first leaf, the crops are moistened and thinned out, leaving 2 most developed sprouts in each hole.
- When 4 leaves are opened, the seedlings are thinned out again, choosing the strongest.
- During the day, in warm weather, the garden must be opened slightly, and at night it must be covered again - in central Russia in May and even in early June, frosts are possible, which can destroy immature plants.
They cover cabbage in the open field at night to protect from the cold
It has been noticed that cabbage sown directly into the ground is more resistant to bad weather and diseases, but the growing season increases by 2 weeks.
Video: growing cabbage
Forcing seedlings
The seedling method is more time consuming, but it allows you to get the harvest earlier. Seedlings are grown in boxes with subsequent picking into individual containers or without picking, sowing seeds directly into pots. Timing sowing - from mid-March to the third decade of April.
Cabbage grown through seedlings ripens earlier
Selection of seedling containers
For forcing seedlings with a pick, boxes, containers or cassettes with small cells are used. In a separate container - plastic cups, large cells, peat pots, snails and diapers, cabbage is grown without picking. There should be drainage holes at the bottom of the container so that excess moisture does not stagnate in the soil, but flows down to the pallet.
For forcing seedlings, you can use containers, pots, cassettes with cells - the main thing is that they have drainage holes
Seed preparation
Plasma or inlaid seeds with a protective shell are sown dry without additional processing. Regular seeds require preparation. First, they are disinfected by placing them in a pink solution of manganese or Fitosporin for 10 minutes. Then they are immersed in hot water (50 ° С) and, after heating for 15 minutes, they are immediately placed in a refrigerator for a day (1–2 ° С). Such hardening with contrasting temperatures will allow growing resistant seedlings, which will subsequently take root painlessly in a new place.
A very important stage in preparing seeds for sowing is disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate
To obtain friendly shoots, the seeds can be soaked for several hours in a solution of Gumi (2 drops \ 200 ml) or Sprout (1 ml / 0.5 L), and dry them before sowing.
Seedling soil
Seedling soil can be bought at garden centers or made from fertile soil, peat and sand in a 1: 1: 1 ratio. The main thing is that it is light, loose, with neutral acidity. The acidic environment provokes the development of cabbage keels, therefore, to create an optimal soil reaction, ash (100 g \ 2.5 l) or Lime-Gumi (50 g \ 2.5 l) is added. Self-prepared soil should be shed with a disinfectant solution of Fitosporin (3 drops \ 2.5 l) or manganese.
Seedling soil is easy to prepare yourself from earth, peat and sand, be sure to add a little ash
Sowing seeds
In containers filled with 3/4 soil, seeds are sealed to a depth of 1 cm. The sowing scheme in the nursery is 1x3 cm, 2-3 seeds are placed in individual pots. Sprinkled seeds are moistened with a spray bottle and placed in a greenhouse.
Put 2-3 seeds in a pill swollen from water
Under the film at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, the sprouts appear very quickly - on the 3-5th day. At this time, the shelter must be removed and the seedlings must be transferred for a week to a bright, but cooler place (12 ° C). Dense plantings should be thinned out, increasing the interval between shoots by 2 cm, and leave one of the strongest seedlings in the cup. The entire remaining seedling period in the room is maintained at an optimal temperature (20–25 ° C), good lighting and regular humidification with warm water are provided.
Cabbage seedlings need to provide enough light
Experienced vegetable growers grow seedlings of different ages - they sow seeds in several stages. This allows them to stretch out the harvest period.
Seedling picking
Grown up seedlings with 3 true leaves from the nursery dive into separate containers... First, cabbage is well watered and, together with moist soil, are transplanted into pots, deepening to the cotyledon leaves. For 2-3 days, until the seedlings adapt to the new place, watering is not carried out.
Grown seedlings are transplanted into separate containers
Top dressing of seedlings
Growing seedlings need microelements, so they are fed three times before transplanting to the garden bed.
- After the appearance of the first leaf, it is watered with Agrostimul solution (1 ml \ 1.7 l).
- A week later, they are fed with a solution of ammonium nitrate (15 g \ 5 l) or a solution of mullein (1:10).
- Before transplanting into open ground, fertilize with a solution of Nitrofoski (15 g \ 5 l).
Plants assimilate microelements well with foliar fertilization
Hardening cabbage
Before planting seedlings in the garden, they are hardened. Pampered seedlings can wither on a hot afternoon or freeze during a night cold snap, and those that have been hardened can withstand temperatures as low as -3 ° C. Hardening is carried out gradually over the course of a week. First, the vents are opened in the room, then the seedlings are taken out to a closed balcony or veranda. Then they are transferred to the garden for a day, bringing them into the house at night, and on the eve of the transplant they are left to spend the night in the open air. Plants after such hardening become stronger and more resistant to bad weather and drought, it is not for nothing that the variety was created for cultivation in harsh conditions.
Delicate seedlings must be hardened by taking them out into the open air
Planting seedlings in the ground
Seedlings are planted in the ground 35–40 days after emergence. Under cabbage beds, an area should be set aside, most of the day illuminated by the sun - with a lack of light, the forks grow small and loose.
For cabbage beds, you need to choose a well-lit place
Mid-late varieties grow best on light sandy loam and loamy soil with low acidity. Experienced farmers know: if plantain, coltsfoot, biting, horsetail and sorrel grow in the garden, then the soil is too acidic, Lime-Gumi should be added to it (for 1 m2 Dissolve 0.5 l of substance in 5 l of water). This drug not only deacidifies, but also increases the fertility of the soil, saturating it with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium.
By the time of planting in the ground, the seedlings should be strong, with three pairs of true leaves
Where cruciferous plants grew last season, cabbage can only be grown in 4–5 years - this is how long the kila pathogens remain in the ground.
In late May - early June, the soil is loosened in the garden, 30 g of urea / m is added2 and rows are marked with an interval of 60 cm. At a distance of 50–70 cm from each other, holes are made, a handful of ash or 15 g of superphosphate is added to each, mixed with earth and 0.5 liters of water are poured in. The plant is lowered into the hole together with a soil clod and covered at the level of the cotyledon leaves.
Cabbage, together with a lump of earth, are transplanted into a garden bed and sprinkled with earth until the cotyledon leaves
A loose planting allows plants to receive the required amount of nutrition, moisture and light and form large, strong heads of cabbage. Young cabbage should be covered with agrofibre in the first days to protect it from too bright sun and nighttime cold snaps. After a week, the seedlings that have not taken root are removed from the garden, and new ones are planted in their place.
Video: planting late cabbage seedlings in the ground
Outdoor crop care
Cabbage Aggressor is unpretentious, but it also requires care. Weighty heads of cabbage with succulent leaves can be obtained only with regular watering, fertilization and treatment from pests.
Watering and hilling
Compliance with the water regime ensures active growth of the green mass and the formation of a dense large fork. Drought-resistant cabbage Aggressor withstands a short drying out of an earthen coma. But the lack of moisture in drought leads to the fact that the leaves become lethargic, the head of cabbage is formed small.
Subject to agricultural technology, the heads of the Aggressor are formed strong and elastic
Moisten the transplanted seedlings on the third day with 8 liters of water / m2so that the soil is soaked to a depth of 35 cm. For 2 weeks, watering is carried out every 3 days. The hardened plants are subsequently watered less often - once a week, but a larger volume of water is used - 12 liters. In a rainy period, to reduce the risk of root rot development, additional watering is not carried out. When laying the forks, it is necessary to bring water under the root. Watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before the heads of cabbage are cut to avoid cracking, and the fiber accumulated in them during this time will help the harvest to be stored for a long time.
Cabbage planted in the garden should be watered at the root
Sprinkler irrigation, drip irrigation and the introduction of water into the grooves are used for watering cabbage. Simulating rain with sprinklers helps in hot summer not only to moisten the leaves and soil well, but also to increase the humidity of the environment. However, this method is not suitable during the head formation period. In summer cottages, it is convenient to water the cabbage by introducing water from a bucket into the grooves made in the aisles. However, in large areas, it is more efficient to use a drip irrigation system. Water is automatically supplied through pipes laid along the rows, and through droppers it flows directly to the roots of the plants.
On hot days, cabbage is irrigated using sprinklers
When the seedlings take root, the first surface (4 cm deep) loosening is carried out. Later, before the leaves close in the aisles, once a week or after moistening as a result of watering or rain, the soil crust is loosened to a depth of 7 cm, providing air access to the roots.
20 days after planting the seedlings, the first hilling is required, 10 days later - the second. The ground within a radius of 15 cm is scooped up to the cabbage, filling the stem to the first leaves. As a result of hilling, additional roots grow, a strong root system is formed, which has a positive effect on productivity.
Hilling promotes the development of a strong root system
Good nutrition
The nutrient requirements of cabbage depend on the stages of development. At an early stage, she needs nitrogen for intensive growth and growth of leaf mass, during the period of laying the forks, she especially needs phosphorus and potassium - it is these microelements that activate her defenses and improve her taste.
Required feeding:
- cabbage, sown immediately to a permanent place, in the phase of the first true leaf, must be fed with a solution of Agricola (20 g \ 10 l), Agrovit (60 g \ 10 l) or ammonium nitrate (20 g \ 10 l);
- with the appearance of the third pair of leaves, a urea solution (30 g / m22) or mullein (1:10) at the rate of 500 ml per plant;
- the same top dressing is applied under the seedlings 2 weeks after planting it in the ground;
- when laying the forks, the cabbage is fertilized with Nitrofoskaya (30 g) or superphosphate (30 g), dissolving them in 10 liters of water and spending 1 liter of solution per plant.
A balanced compound fertilizer will increase soil fertility
Instead of mineral fertilizers, you can improve the nutrient composition of the soil with herbal infusion or yeast solution. The infusion is prepared from nettle, dandelion, burdock - herbs are put in a barrel, poured with water and left to ferment for 5 days. Then they filter, dilute with water (1:10) and water the cabbage at intervals of 2 weeks. Yeast starter culture from 100 g of yeast, 30 g of sugar and a bucket of water after three days of fermentation must also be diluted with water (1:10) and 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days to feed the plants. However, it should be noted that yeast fertilization will not be effective if it is damp and cold outside.
As a top dressing of cabbage, you can use nettle infusion
Video: folk remedy for feeding cabbage
Protection against diseases and pests
Cabbage Aggressor is resistant to fusarium wilting, but violation of agricultural technology can provoke the development of spores of parasitic fungi, as well as the reproduction of pests. When processing vegetable crops, it is advisable to use biological products.
Table: protecting cabbage from disease
| Diseases | Symptoms | Preventive measures | Treatment |
| Blackleg | The basal neck of the stem turns black and dies off. The disease leads to mass death of seedlings. |
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| Keela | The first sign of a keel is poor seedling development. When transplanting seedlings to a garden bed, growths can be found on the roots. Diseased plants do not take root well, the lower leaves dry out over time, the heads of cabbage form loose and small. |
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| Peronosporosis | The pathogen is especially dangerous for young plants. Yellowish spots appear on the upper side of the leaf, the lower part is covered with a grayish bloom. A moist environment contributes to the rapid spread of the fungus. In diseased plants, leaves turn yellow and die. |
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Photo gallery: signs of cabbage disease
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- With the development of a black leg, the seedlings turn black and rot in the root zone
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- An outward sign of keela is wilting of leaves
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- Peronosporosis infection is indicated by a grayish coating on the underside of the leaf.
Cabbage perfectly resists pests in joint plantings with other crops. Onions and garlic will help to get rid of cabbage flies and cruciferous fleas, celery will scare off the white butterfly, and dill and carrots will protect against aphid infestations.
You can plant a cabbage patch with dill and marigolds - their smell will scare away harmful insects
Table: the main pests of cabbage
| Pests | Manifestations | Prevention | Measures |
| Slugs | Slugs appear in wet weather. They creep out to cabbage beds at dusk and stay there until the morning, devouring the green mass of plants. In the morning they climb under the upper leaves of the heads of cabbage, hiding from the sun. If you do not take action in time, you can lose the entire crop. |
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| Cruciferous fleas | Small insects like to feed on the leaves of young shoots, gnawing holes in them. The rapid increase in flea beetle numbers is facilitated by the high air temperature and lack of moisture. In hot weather, massive accumulations of parasites can destroy seedlings planted in the garden, because gluttonous fleas can eat up to 3 times their weight. |
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| Aphid | Sucking insects, rapidly multiplying in dry hot weather, stick to cabbage leaves and suck nutritious juices from them. The leaf plates turn pale, dry out and curl. Parasites not only weaken plants, slowing down the development of the head of cabbage, but are also carriers of viral diseases. |
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| Cabbage white | Young caterpillars gnaw the flesh of the leaf from the lower side, without touching the upper skin, while adults gnaw the leaves mainly along the edges. Gluttonous parasites can eat up the entire head of cabbage, leaving only coarse veins on the leaves. Leaf-eating pests lead to a decrease in the presentation of cabbage or make it unfit for consumption. | Inspect cabbage periodically and remove any eggs that have been laid. |
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Photo gallery: parasitic insects damaging cabbage
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- Slugs eat cabbage greens
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- Cruciferous fleas are especially fond of young leaves, gnawing holes in them
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- Aphid colonies cling to cabbage leaves and suck out nutritious juices
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- The caterpillar of the cabbage whites nibbles leaves
Hares love to feast on cabbage. They go out for feeding in the evening after sunset or in the early morning before dawn. A high fence and hanging strips of shiny material on a wire will help protect vegetable plantings from uninvited guests.
Harvesting and storage
Cabbage of Aggressor variety ripens in late September - early October.The heads of cabbage are cut with a sharp knife, leaving a stump 4 cm long and a few upper leaves - this way the vegetable will stay fresh longer. Damaged forks should be recycled, and strong and resilient heads of cabbage should be transferred to a basement or cellar, folded into wooden boxes and placed on shelves or hung by stumps. It is important during storage to maintain the optimal temperature regime - from 0 to 2 ° C and air humidity 90%. Under such conditions, cabbage does not lose its presentation and taste within 5 months.
Dense heads of cabbage variety Aggressor do not lose their marketable qualities when stored for 5 months
Reviews
For two years now I have been growing this particular cabbage from Eco Product seeds. I grow cabbage by direct sowing of seeds into the ground: I prepare the holes, fertilize well with humus, water and sow 2-3 seeds, be sure to cover them with a cut plastic bottle. Such a micro greenhouse allows planting at an earlier date. As a rule, all the seeds sprout, so I leave the strongest seedling in the hole, and pinch the other. I take off the bottles when the seedlings get stronger. The cabbage is good. Stored for a long time, can be used for fermentation.
Last year I bought seeds of cabbage of the Russian selection Aggressor, the summer was hot, we did not have a single rain in July-August, all the varieties of cabbage that I planted were small, and I threw something out altogether. And the Aggressor lived up to its name, heads up to 5-6 kg, dense, white inside. Fermented, it turned out tasty and in moderation of juice. And it still lies well.
I really liked the Aggressor cabbage hybrid because it showed good results. Very high yield, the size of a head of cabbage is not less than 2 kilograms. The beautiful shape of the head gives this variety an additional plus. A distinctive feature of the Aggressor hybrid from its competitors is its exclusiveness in storage. The aggressor is really kept just great. Under normal storage conditions, namely, if the optimal storage temperature is +5 degrees, then you can safely store it for up to six months, and in exceptional conditions even up to nine months.
Sowed 2 hybrids of late-ripening white cabbage: Aggressor F1 and Kilaton F1. Planted at the end of the third decade of May, the predecessor - tomatoes for 2 years in a row. The aggressor is very good, versatile, tasty, also very good for fermentation. But she lay in the basement only until mid-March. And then the heads of cabbage began to crack and sprout.
Vegetable growers have appreciated the advantages of Aggressor cabbage - undemanding to growing conditions, resistance to extreme conditions, stable yield, excellent taste and keeping quality. Summer residents and farmers know that they will not be left without a crop. And the attractive presentation allows you to use the vegetable not only for your own consumption, but also for sale.
