Garden blueberries: variety selection and growing recommendations

Many in childhood picked blueberries in the forest. But now these berries can be grown in the garden, because they are not only very tasty, but also extremely useful for health. Breeders have bred many varieties of garden blueberries, most of which are frost-resistant. This allows them to be cultivated practically throughout Russia. Garden blueberries are quite demanding on growing conditions, but caring for them is not too difficult. If you first get acquainted with the recommendations and rules, even an inexperienced gardener can get a bountiful harvest.

What blueberries look like and how are they useful?

Blueberries belong to the Heather family, just like lingonberries, cranberries and blueberries. In nature, blueberries are widespread in temperate climates. It is ubiquitous in Northern Europe, North America, Asia. The plant is very hardy and bears fruit even in subarctic climates. This makes it possible to cultivate blueberries practically throughout Russia.

In natural conditions, blueberries most often grow in forests or along the banks of swamps, they grow in breadth, covering the ground with a solid carpet

Its Latin name Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry myrtle) is due to the external resemblance of the plant to myrtle. The common name is due to the fact that the juice of the berries permanently stains the tongue and fingers in a bluish-black color.

Garden blueberry is a deciduous shrub about 1.5–2 m high. Shoots extend from the trunk at an acute angle. The leaves are small, rounded, the edge is carved with denticles. In the fall, they change color from salad green to bright scarlet and purple. The root system is very developed - from one main rhizome there are many short roots no more than 5-6 cm long. They are intertwined, turning into something resembling a pile. The productive period of a plant's life is 50 years or more.

The garden blueberry bush is much larger than the forest one

Blueberries bloom in May or early June. Flowers are solitary, small, located at the base of green, non-lignified shoots. The petals are greenish-white or with a pinkish tint.

Blueberries are a good honey plant, honey from it is less known than, for example, buckwheat or lime, but it is very fragrant, with a slight reddish tint

The fruit of the garden blueberry is an almost regular spherical berry with a diameter of 1–1.5 cm with a “scar” at the base. They are arranged as if they are lying on the leaves. The skin is bluish-black, covered with a continuous layer of bluish-blue bloom. The pulp is juicy but firm. The juice is purple-violet. The crop ripens in August or early September.On average, you can count on 7-10 kg per adult bush. Fresh berries can be stored for a month and a half if kept at a temperature of about 0 ° C.

Garden blueberries most often at the end of summer, their fruiting period is extended

The dark color of the juice and pulp is due to the high content of antioxidants. Also blueberries contain vitamins A, C, group B, organic acids, pectin. Of the microelements, it can be noted that there is a high concentration of magnesium, potassium, zinc, calcium, phosphorus, copper, iron, selenium.

It is a well-known fact that blueberries help improve vision, including night vision, and relieve eye fatigue. It is enough in the morning about half an hour before breakfast to eat a spoonful of fresh berries every day. There is no reliable scientific evidence to support this yet. Only a positive effect on the supply of blood to the retina and the renewal of its cells has been proven. Nevertheless, during the Second World War, this berry was included in the diet of pilots fighting as part of the anti-Hitler coalition. And now it is an integral part of the astronauts' nutrition.

Blueberries have long been used in folk medicine. The high content of antioxidants in the juice makes it an effective remedy for combating all kinds of skin diseases, abscesses, ulcers. It also has antibacterial and antimicrobial effects, strengthens the immune system.

Not only fresh, but also dried blueberries have useful properties.

Leaves can be used too. They are cut off during the flowering of the shrub and dried. The infusion has a tonic, bile and diuretic effect.

Despite all the possible benefits, blueberries are not recommended for stomach and intestinal problems, especially for ulcers and gastritis in the acute stage. Due to the intense color, the fruits often cause allergies. You should not eat berries and lactating women - you can provoke the development of diathesis in a child. And eating along with other berries (garden strawberries, raspberries, cloudberries) often causes an upset stomach.

Garden blueberry has a good yield, it bears fruit stably, annually

Garden blueberries are planted not only for the sake of the future harvest, but also to decorate the garden plot. It is used for bordering paths and ponds, creating curbs and hedges, looks spectacular in rockeries and alpine slides. Most often it is combined with conifers.

Video: health benefits of blueberries

Varieties popular with gardeners

The seedlings sold in nurseries under the name "garden blueberry" are nothing more than undersized blueberries. There are still few Russian varieties and hybrids, mainly the achievements of Canadian and American breeders are presented on the market. Many of them were bred with the participation of "real" forest blueberries.

The following varieties are most popular among gardeners:

• Bluecrop. One of the first successful experiments of breeders, the variety has not yet lost its popularity and is considered almost a reference. Plant height up to 2 m, average yield - 9–12 kg per bush. Frost resistance up to -35 ° C allows it to be grown in the Urals, Siberia. The average weight of the berry is about 3 g. The taste is sweet with sourness, refreshing. Regular pruning is essential to maintain high yields.
• North Country. The bush is 1.2–1.5 m high. The variety is one of the earliest, the harvest ripens in mid-July. The diameter of the berry is about 1.5 cm, the fruits are very sweet and aromatic. Productivity - about 15 kg. The plant, in comparison with other varieties, is not particularly demanding on the quality of the soil.
• Herbert. Powerful, spreading shrub, 2 m high or slightly more. Because of its size, it is even called the "blueberry tree". It blooms late, therefore it rarely suffers from recurrent spring frosts. Fruiting occurs in the second decade of August. Productivity - 9-10 kg per bush. The berries are very sweet and large, the variety belongs to the category of dessert. It is valued for frost and drought resistance, rarely suffers from diseases.
• Сhanticleer. A fairly compact plant with a height of about 1.5 m and a crown diameter of up to 90 cm.The earliest cultivar of garden blueberries, flowers immediately after the spring frost. Harvested at the end of June or at the very beginning of July. Fruiting is annual, but not too abundant (on average 5-6 kg per bush). The berries are sweet, with a slight sourness, of different sizes.
• Bluegold. The bush is rather low (1.2–1.5 m), but powerful, spreading. The berries are large, 2.5–3 cm in diameter, sweet and sour, collected in bunches of 5–8 pieces. Fruiting is extended, lasts from late July to mid-September. Average yield is 5–7 kg per bush. Frost resistance up to -35ºС.
• Bonus. The variety belongs to the category of medium late, is valued for the large (3–3.5 cm in diameter) size and taste of the berries. Spreading bush, up to 1.5 m high, shoots are slightly raised. The average yield is 5–6 kg. Fruits ripen in the second decade of August.
• Brigitta or Brigitta Blue. The bush is compact, up to 1.3 m high. The berries are large, the flesh is dense, but very sweet. Stores well. It is grown not only by amateur gardeners, but also on an industrial scale. Productivity - 6-10 kg per bush. Fruiting is massive, annual.
• Chandler. The variety is quite demanding in care, but it pays off with a high yield, large size and excellent taste of berries. The bush is up to 1.5 m high, spreading, differs in growth rate. Productivity up to 12 kg, annual fruiting. It stretches from early August to mid-September.
• Duke. The bush is tall (1.8–2 m), spreading, begins to bear fruit in the third year after planting. The berries are large (up to 3 cm in diameter), the pulp is juicy, sweet, with a wine flavor. The average yield is 6-9 kg, the fruits ripen in the first decade of August. Frost resistance up to -38–40 ° C. One of the most common commercial varieties.
• Elizabeth. One of the latest achievements of Canadian breeders. Plant height - 1.5-1.8 m, reddish shoots. The berries are sweet and sour, large (2.2–2.5 cm in diameter). Frost resistance up to -32–35ºС. The crop can be harvested not only manually, but also mechanically.
• Early Blue. Low shrub. There are few shoots, so the pruning procedure is greatly simplified. The berries ripen en masse in early July. Average yield is 7–8 kg.
• Elliott. The berries are medium-sized (1.2–1.7 cm in diameter), but with a very dense skin, which leads to transportability, the possibility of long-term storage and mechanized harvesting. Blueberries are very sweet with a delicate aroma. Average yield is 7-8 kg per bush.
• Nelson. A bush with a thickened crown, 1.3–1.5 m high. The harvest begins to ripen in the first decade of August, fruiting lasts 3–3.5 weeks. The berries are slightly flattened, rather small, but very juicy and sweet. Even perfectly ripe fruits do not fall off the bush. Frost resistance - at the level of -30 ° C.
• Top Hat. A hybrid bred with the participation of common blueberries and blueberries. It is almost impossible to distinguish them by smell. The height of the bush is 35–40 cm, it can be grown even at home. Fruits are large, weighing up to 4 g. Productivity - 5-6 kg per bush. The berries ripen in early August. The plant rarely suffers from diseases and pests. Very high frost resistance - up to -45 ° C.
• Chippeva. A bush with a very dense crown 0.8–1 m high. Frost resistance up to -30 ° C. Fruits up to 2.5 cm in diameter, juicy and sweet. The variety is early, the harvest ripens in mid-July.
• Blueray. The bush is powerful, 1.3–1.6 m high. The leaves are slightly corrugated at the edges. Fruits weighing up to 2 g, sweet taste with slight sourness. Fruiting is annual, extended for 2-3 weeks. Average yield is 6–8 kg.
• Patriot. Shrub up to 1.5 m high, the crown is not too dense. Differs in growth rate. The berries are slightly flattened, very sweet, with a pronounced aroma. The yield is about 5–7 kg. The variety is valued for its frost resistance and high immunity.
• Spartan. Shrub up to 2 m high with powerful upright shoots. The harvest ripens at the end of July. You can count on 5-8 kg per bush. Fruits are not too large (1.6-1.8 cm in diameter), but very aromatic, with dense pulp. The taste is pleasant and sour.The plant is not affected by moniliosis, the berries are not "mummified" in the heat.
• Northland. The bush is powerful, but low, up to 1 m. It is widely used in landscape design. The variety belongs to the category of medium early, the berries ripen at the end of July. Fruiting annually, 6–8 kg per bush. The berries are small enough but sweet. The growing season is short, so this variety can be grown even in the northern regions.
• Liberty. A late ripening variety, one of the latest achievements of breeders from the United States. The bush is up to 1.5 m high and about the same diameter. The average weight of a berry is 1.5-1.8 g. The variety is valued for its high content of antioxidants, keeping quality, transportability, suitability for mechanized harvesting. Frost resistance - up to -37ºС, the bush rarely suffers from return frosts in spring.

Photo gallery: common varieties of garden blueberries

Russian breeders also have their own achievements. Moreover, these are blueberries, not blueberries:

• Cheerful. The variety is valued for its high yield. The height of the shrub is up to 40 cm. Fruits are small, weighing 0.3–0.5 g. The pulp is juicy, very sweet. The plant is a good honey plant.
• A keen eye. Sprawling shrub 30–35 cm high. It blooms in early April. The fruits are pleasant to the taste, sweet and sour. The average berry weight is 0.5 g.
• Forest pearl. The bush is almost spherical, 20-30 cm high. The crop ripens in late July or early August. You will have to pick the berries several times, this is due to the fact that the flowers do not open at the same time. The pulp is juicy, the taste is sweet, with a slight sourness.

Photo gallery: blueberry varieties bred in Russia

In addition to ordinary blueberries, there is the so-called blueberry forte, aka sunberry. This annual plant has absolutely nothing to do with "traditional" blueberries.It was bred by Canadian breeders based on several varieties of creeping nightshade. Sunberry differs from ordinary and garden blueberries in a higher yield and large size of black glossy berries. Plant height - up to 1.5 m, in appearance it resembles giant tomato bushes.

Sunberry, aka "sun berry" or "blueberry forte" has absolutely nothing to do with forest and garden blueberries

Planting procedure and preparation for it

In nature, blueberries grow under the "canopy" of the branches of taller trees, respectively, it prefers light partial shade. Its natural habitat is coniferous forests and bog shores, so the soil must be acidic. It is also desirable for the groundwater to come close enough to the surface, by 1–1.5 m. But modern varieties and hybrids successfully take root and bear fruit in open areas.

Planting time depends on the climate in the region. If it is mild, subtropical, the best time for this is late summer or autumn. There is still quite a lot of time before the onset of cold weather, the seedlings will have time to adapt to new living conditions. In temperate climates, it is almost impossible to predict when winter will come. Therefore, garden blueberries are planted at the end of spring, when the threat of recurrent frosts is minimized.

Two- or three-year-old garden blueberry seedlings with a closed root system take root best

When planting several bushes, at least 1.5 m are left between them. Between the rows of plantings - 2.5-3 m. In no case should blueberries be planted under fruit trees or in the immediate vicinity of other crops for which natural organic matter is used.

The optimum depth of the planting pit is about 60 cm, the diameter is the same or slightly larger. At the bottom, a drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, brick chips, clay shards about 10 cm thick is required. Pits are always prepared in advance - 3-4 weeks before the planned planting or even in the fall.

At the bottom of the planting hole for garden blueberries, a drainage layer is required

Garden blueberries prefer acidic soil (pH 3.8–5.0), so the soil extracted from the pit is mixed with peat in a 2: 1 ratio and 2-3 g of sulfur powder is added. A natural alternative to the latter is coniferous needles or powdered bark. Peat can be replaced with soil dug up in the forest where real blueberries or lingonberries grow. In no case humus or rotted compost is introduced. An additional 30–40 g of complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (Azofoska, Nitrofoska) is added to the poor soil.

Sulfur powder acidifies the soil, bringing the acid-base balance to such indicators that suit garden strawberries

The planting of garden blueberries in the ground, in comparison with other berry bushes, has almost no specific features. The only caveat is that the soil in the hole and the plant after planting are watered not with ordinary, but slightly acidified water, diluting 3-4 g of citric acid, 40 ml of electrolyte for batteries, or 100 ml of apple cider vinegar in 10 liters of water.

The plant is transferred to the pit along with a lump of earth, the roots of garden blueberries dry out quickly, even with short contact with air. To make it easier to remove the plant from the container, it must be watered abundantly about half an hour before planting. The near-trunk circle is mulched with peat, fallen leaves or rotted sawdust. When planting plants older than three years, all available shoots are shortened by cutting them to 25–30 cm. After planting, the bush should appear as if on a low ridge. The root collar is not buried in the process.

There is nothing difficult in planting garden blueberries in the ground, even a novice gardener can cope with this

Adult bushes of garden blueberries tolerate transplantation easily, the stress from a properly performed procedure is minimal. They need to be removed from the soil, trying as little as possible to damage the clod of earth on the roots, transfer to a new place, water and trim abundantly, leaving "hemp" from the shoots no more than 30 cm high.Often this procedure is carried out in order to rejuvenate the plant.

Experienced gardeners recommend throwing a handful of dry hydrogel into the planting hole before planting blueberries. It "binds" fertilizers, preventing them from being washed out of the soil, prevents the development of pathogenic fungi and retains moisture at the plant roots for a long time.

Video: how to plant blueberries correctly

Important nuances of crop care

If the correct growing conditions are provided for garden blueberries, caring for them is relatively easy. It boils down to regular watering, fertilizing and proper pruning. Of course, the trunk circle must be maintained in proper condition, clearing it of weeds and plant debris and periodically loosening it to a shallow depth (up to 3 cm). The plant is frost-resistant, so it does not need special preparation for winter. This applies not only to garden blueberries cultivated in a warm subtropical climate, but also to those grown in the Urals, in Siberia.

Much more than the winter cold, garden blueberries are afraid of recurrent spring frosts. Flowers can be severely affected by them. Therefore, if the crop is grown in regions where the weather is unpredictable, you need to be prepared for its whims. Young plants, if their dimensions permit, are covered with several layers of any covering material that allows air to pass through, fires are made next to adults. Another remedy used by experienced gardeners is to pour blueberries with Epin diluted in cold water (10 liter ampoule). The effect of this treatment lasts 3-4 days.

Watering

Watering garden blueberries should be regular, and the soil under the bushes should be slightly damp, but waterlogged soil is also harmful to the plant. If it is very hot outside and there is no rain, watering is carried out every 4–5 days. Otherwise, once every 2–2.5 weeks is enough. At the same time, ordinary water is alternated with acidified water.

Watering garden blueberries, alternating with ordinary water with acidified

Mulch will help to keep moisture in the soil for a long time. It also saves the gardener time on weeding. But its layer should be thick enough, not less than 3 cm.

If blueberries are grown in an open, sunny area, the plant should be sprayed daily in extreme heat. It is even better to perform the procedure twice a day - early in the morning and in the evening after sunset.

Fertilization

Garden blueberries are fed exclusively with mineral fertilizers. When using complex funds, you must first study the composition - this culture categorically does not tolerate chlorine.

Every 2–3 years, the soil under the bushes is refreshed by adding peat mixed with rotted sawdust, needles, dried and chopped potato peelings. If the soil is “heavy”, river sand is also added.

Pine needles - one of the natural soil acidifiers

Top dressing is applied to the soil in spring, in the process of loosening the soil. The norm for an adult bush is no more than 12-15 g of complex nitrogen-potassium phosphorus fertilizer. You can also use simple or double superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, potassium magnesium. At the same time, sulfur powder is distributed in the near-trunk circle (40–50 g each year). It helps to neutralize the effect of nitrogen fertilizers that alkalize the soil.

During the growing season, blueberries can be sprayed or watered several times with a solution of a complex preparation. From specialized means, Aciplex, Piafoxan blue are recommended (they are suitable not only for Heather plants, but also for marsh, conifers). Of the complex fertilizers for berry bushes, Solution, Fertik Universal, Kemiru-Lux are used.

Kemira-Lux is one of the most popular universal fertilizers for berry bushes and fruit trees

Pruning

The first time the plant is pruned immediately after planting. Then you need to wait 2-3 years. After this time, remove all weak, deformed shoots, leaving 7-10 of the most powerful, developed and healthy branches.

Pruning garden blueberries is carried out in early spring, but always at a positive temperature

In the future, every year, all shoots over four years old are shortened by about 20 cm. Also, every fall, you will need to remove thin side shoots. Very few berries ripen on them, they are small and often deformed.

Most garden blueberry varieties have a thickened crown, so the plant needs regular pruning.

A radical rejuvenating pruning of a garden blueberry bush is needed every 12-15 years. All shoots are shortened to a length of 18–20 cm. This has a positive effect on productivity, the fruits ripen larger and sweeter.

In general, the garden blueberry tolerates pruning quite well, even if the gardener "overdoes" a little. Therefore, it is often grown as an ornamental plant; bushes can be given a wide variety of bizarre configurations.

Video: recommendations for the care of garden blueberries

Reproduction methods

Most often, amateur gardeners propagate garden blueberries by cuttings. Nobody forbids trying to germinate seeds, but the procedure is quite lengthy and does not guarantee success. In addition, the varietal characteristics of the “parent” plant are rarely preserved in full. Most often, professional breeders engaged in the development of new varieties resort to this method.

Cuttings

This is the easiest and fastest way to get a new blueberry bush. From absolutely healthy plants, the tops of green non-lignified shoots 15-17 cm long with 2-3 growth buds are cut off. The lower cut is made at an angle of approximately 45 ° C, the upper cut is straight, approximately 1–2 cm above the last kidney. All leaves are cut off from the lower third, the rest are cut off by about a third.

Cutting is the easiest and most reliable way to get a new blueberry bush

Cuttings are rooted in a mixture of peat with any "baking powder" (sand, perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber), planting them at an angle. To make the process go faster, the base is sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator. The substrate is necessarily well moistened, the containers are covered with cut-off plastic bottles. In order for the cuttings to take root quickly, you need warmth, daylight hours of at least 10 hours and constant watering.

Planting material gives roots quickly enough. Cuttings cut at the end of July can be planted in a permanent place in mid-October. If the climate in the region does not allow this, cuttings are dropped into a box of sand for the winter and kept at a temperature of about 0 ° C or slightly higher.

Seed blueberry

In order to get seeds, several ripe large blueberries are kneaded and the resulting gruel is poured with water. Then it is filtered. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times until the water becomes completely transparent. It is very important to completely clear the seeds from the pulp so as not to provoke the development of rot.

Garden blueberry seeds before planting must be thoroughly cleaned of pulp

Blueberry seeds are lightly dried and immediately sown in shallow containers filled with moist peat or a mixture of peat chips and sand. The containers are covered with glass or plastic wrap, the substrate is constantly kept in a slightly damp state. Keep them in a dark, warm place.

The first shoots appear in 2.5–3 weeks. Immediately after this, the shelter is removed, the container with the seedlings is transferred to the brightest place in the room. It is advisable to lower the temperature of the content to 15 ° C so that the plants do not stretch too much. In spring, seedlings dive, seating them in individual containers. They can be planted in a permanent place in another year. Harvesting from seed-grown blueberries will take at least 5-6 years.

The harvest of garden blueberries grown from seeds will take at least five years

You can plant seeds in the spring. In this case, during the winter, they are kept in a refrigerator in a container with wet sand.

Video: germinating blueberry seeds

Common diseases, pests and control

Blueberries rarely suffer from diseases and pests, by nature they have good immunity. The same can be said about the absolute majority of varieties and hybrids bred by breeding. Nevertheless, exceptions do happen.

Of the pests for garden blueberries, the most dangerous are:

• Aphid. Small insects of black-brown or light salad color stick to the tops of the shoots, the underside of young leaves, buds and fruit ovaries in a continuous mass. They feed on the sap of the plant, the damaged parts gradually dry out and die off. Aphids are effectively scared away by any harsh-smelling infusions. For prophylaxis, it is enough to spray blueberries with infusions of any herbs with a characteristic odor, onion or garlic arrows, mustard powder, hot pepper, orange peel, and so on, once every 5-7 days. The same remedy will help to cope with the pest if the problem is noticed on time. The frequency of treatments is increased up to 3-4 times a day. If this does not help, general-purpose insecticides are used (Inta-Vir, Mospilan, Konfidor-Maxi, Admiral, Iskra-Bio).
• Shield. The pests are similar to roundish growths of a grayish-brown color, dotting the leaves and shoots. They are almost flat at first, but gradually swell. The tissues surrounding them take on an unnatural yellowish or reddish tint. For prevention, the plant is sprayed with Karate before the leaves bloom. Visible scale insects are collected from the bush by hand, after having lubricated their shells with machine oil, kerosene, turpentine. Then the bush is treated with Phosbecid, Aktara, Aktellik.

Photo gallery: what pests dangerous for the culture look like

In the development of fungal diseases, the gardener himself is often to blame, watering blueberries too abundantly, overly addicted to fertilizers (especially nitrogen-containing ones). Cool, damp weather also contributes to their spread.

Most often, the culture is affected by the following diseases:

• Miscophereliosis. Almost black spots appear on the leaves, shimmering red. Blueberries look like they are splattered with mud.
• Rust of leaves. The seamy side of the sheet plate is tightened with a "fleecy" bloom of a bright yellow-orange color; irregular bulges appear on the front side. Gradually the plaque darkens and "thickens", the affected leaves dry and die off.
• Gray mold. It affects ripening berries, covered with a layer of grayish or whitish "fluffy" bloom. It gradually darkens, the fruits turn black and mummified, fall off.

Photo gallery: symptoms of garden diseases typical of blueberries

Copper-containing preparations - fungicides are effective against any fungal diseases. You can use both time-tested means (Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate) and modern ones (Topsin-M, Fundazol, Strobi, Abiga-Peak, Horus). Usually, if the disease is noticed on time, 2-3 treatments with an interval of 7-10 days are enough.

For prevention, blueberries are powdered with crushed chalk, sifted wood ash, and colloidal sulfur. Also, the bush can be sprayed with diluted water in a 1: 1 ratio with kefir or serum or iodine solution (10 drops per 10 liters of water). The frequency of processing is once every 1.5–2 weeks.

In addition to fungal diseases, there are also viral diseases such as necrosis, dwarfism, mosaic of leaves, "curl", "witch's broom". At the moment, there are no effective drugs against them, so special attention should be paid to prevention - competent plant care and the fight against pests that spread the virus.

Blueberries hydroponically and at home

The dimensions of the bush make it possible to grow blueberries not only in garden plots, but also at home.

Blueberries are planted both as seedlings and seeds. Moreover, the latter can be obtained even from frozen berries. Germinate them in the same way as for planting in the open field. The procedure for planting seedlings also has no specific features. For growing at home, choose the smallest hybrids - Top Hat, Sunshine Blue and others. But you can choose other varieties, artificially limiting the height of the plant to 80–90 cm. Some amateur flower growers even grow blueberries as bonsai.

Bilberries bear fruit in "captivity" about three years after planting. The harvest ripens in mid-summer, fruiting lasts until early September. Since there are no pollinating insects at home, it is recommended to plant 2-3 bushes of different varieties for cross-pollination.

Garden blueberries are successfully grown at home, the dimensions of the plant allow it

For the summer, containers with plants can be transferred to the balcony, protecting them from direct sunlight. The optimum temperature for the culture is 18–23 ° C. Daylight hours are at least 6 hours. If there is not enough natural light, fluorescent or special phytolamps are used. Blueberries are watered every 3-4 days, the soil is mulched with coniferous needles, sawdust or bark crushed into powder. In early spring and late autumn, it is advisable to feed the bushes with specialized fertilizer for Heathers. If it was not possible to find it, preparations used for indoor plants, which also prefer acidic soil, for example, for azaleas, are suitable.

Another quite affordable method is hydroponic cultivation of blueberries. You just need to create a sufficiently acidic nutrient mixture with a pH of 4.5–5.5. Other important conditions for abundant fruiting are temperature 22-24 ° C, daylight hours at least 10 hours (ideally 12-16 hours), air humidity 65-75%. Expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite or specialized professional mixtures are used as a substrate.

Watering the bushes is carried out by the drip method, nutrients are also supplied. Necessarily increased content of sulfur in the nutrient mixture. An interesting solution is planting garlic next to blueberries. It has the property of accumulating sulfur, then releases it in a form in which blueberries can assimilate a trace element.

If you plant blueberries not all at once, but at intervals of 2-3 months, you can harvest all year round. Plants need regular pruning even more than those grown in the garden. About a third of the green mass is removed annually.

Gardeners reviews

It turns out that garden blueberries need very acidic soil: they not only interfere with peat, but also acidify it with sulfur, so it didn't really grow with my mother. And it also needs to be mulched with sawdust and potato peels, because they not only acidify, but also contain the fungus necessary for good blueberry growth.

When I worked in the Czech Republic, I tried Nelson's garden blueberries with my mentor. Great taste, beautiful bushes. Well, there the climate is just right for blueberries. I can answer for this grade. Others for me are pitchforks on the water.

In fact, garden blueberries are very difficult to kill. And it's easy enough to correct the wrong landing actions. The most important thing is to prepare the landing site. At our dacha, groundwater is very close, and in spring the water often stagnates. Therefore, we dug a trench about 10 cm deep, edged it with wooden boards to a height of about 25 cm, that is, raised the bed. Those who are normal with groundwater, the easier it is. You just need to replace the garden soil with blueberry substrate. Most importantly - NO soil, compost or humus! I don't add sand either - it will still be washed out by rains, watering. And in nature, sand is present below, under the roots. It’s good to pour river sand down to the bottom of the bed. The key word in sawdust is OVERVERSE or SEMI-EXPOSED. And not white, clean, fragrant! And preferably conifers.If you add fresh sawdust, chlorosis will be provided. When decomposing, sawdust absorb nitrogen (proven by science and the sad experience of amateurs). The most remarkable thing is to purchase high-quality red peat with the lowest acidity and mix it with a coniferous forest substrate. It is good to shed, let the garden bed “stand” for a week and you can start planting.

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She planted four bushes of garden blueberries (one even has a bunch of berries). She put her “in the comb” as I was told that she did not need “wet feet”. I added specially purchased horse peat to the soil, I think they will like it, and I will also water it from time to time with water with the addition of citric acid.

Garden blueberries and blueberries love acidic soils and azalea fertilizer is just what they need. I have six bushes, I feed her in the spring with fertilizer for azaleas.

Out of interest, a blueberry bush Top Hut is growing on the balcony (a cross between blueberries and blueberries). It is still small, but there were a few flowers. There are no berries yet. By the way, he spent the winter on my balcony, where the temperature is only a few degrees warmer than outside. The bush was just in a plastic pot wrapped in newspapers, and the branches were covered with a rather thin rag. And nothing is frozen. True, our winter was also warm. Frosts did not last a month.

Garden blueberry is a rather difficult plant to grow, but the result is worth the effort. Blueberries are planted in places that will create the effect of a "second tier" in the forest, such a partial shade, because when exposed to direct sunlight, the plants get sunburn. The soil must be well moistened and mulched, preferably with needles. In general, the soil should be acidic, which is beneficial for blueberry cultivation. To stimulate the growth of roots and the formation of large dense berries, it is necessary to water the blueberries with acidified water (1.5%).

Garden blueberries love acidic soil. She does not grow well without it. A lot depends on the quality of the planting material. We planted both large and small bushes in many areas. We harvest the big ones regularly and the berries look like in the pictures. The little ones take root for a long time, but after 2-3 years everything will return to normal. It is necessary to acidify the soil twice a year (for an average bush a glass of vinegar diluted in 10 liters of water) - do not be alarmed, it works great. Or buy very expensive professional deoxidizers (the meaning is the same). Add sour peat when planting. And don't forget about feeding.

I originally planted garden blueberries in a peat pit on a low (flooded with water in spring) place. Before every winter I mulch with sawdust. When decomposing, they acidify the soil. I haven't done anything else in three years. I just go to admire and pick berries. It grows slowly. Beautiful in the fall. The promised height is up to 2 m. While the bush has grown to about 60 cm.

Water garden blueberries every 2–3 weeks with electrolyte-added water (for ACID batteries): a tablespoon per 10 liters of water, stir well. You can mulch with coniferous litter (I sprinkle with pine needles, while the flight is normal - for two years already).

Garden blueberries, if you fulfill all the "requirements" of the plant to the quality of the soil, is not too demanding in care. Growing it is no more difficult than the gooseberries or currants familiar to Russian gardeners. It is enough to pay a little attention to the bushes, and the plant will "thank" the gardener with an abundant harvest of remarkably tasty and extremely healthy berries.

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